Each January since 2001 Mary and I have gone scuba-diving in Cozumel. We go for the diving, but also for the immersion in another culture, another way of life. We stay at Hotel Pepita, an old, family-owned hotel favored by divers, set a few blocks away from the tourist section of San Miguel. We shop for fruit at the bustling market in a big warehouse a few blocks farther back from the tourist section; and we dine where we see the locals eating. And, last January, I went to mass at the church of San Miguel Arcangel; this is part of a report of that experience.
The faux Joseph and faux Mary, the altar boys, the priest all take their places around the altar.
I know enough to know that the essence of Mass in any language and any culture is Offering, Consecration, and Communion. Though readings are not core to the ritual, there are readings, usually from an epistle, always one from one of the Gospels. On Sundays there will often be a homily.
Today it is a young woman reading from an epistle at the lectern in the sanctuary, to my left, to the priest's right as he faces us. The priest reads from a Gospel at the same lectern, then returns to the altar to give his homily. I don't speak Spanish, but I've had enough instruction in Latin and the turn of the ecclesiastical year to guess at the drift of his words. I make out each instance of "Senor Jesus" in his discourse.
One of the two couples who carry the the offering forward comes from the bench along the wall to my left; they pass right in front of me on their way to take wafers and wine in hand. The other couple comes out of a pew. Together these four bear the people's gifts forward.
Four women carry baskets among the congregation, silently appealing for the financial offerings that support the church. Some church-goers offer Mexican coins, some offer folding money. A tourist has put in some American money. I make a small donation myself - for the upkeep of the church, which is a fine old building. There are large banners in the sanctuary, against the far wall. One of them reads:
HOY
NOS
HA
NACI
DO
The other says:
EL
SAL
VA
DOR
To be continued....
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